Ball python
Python regius · Royal python
The ball python from West and Central Africa is the most commonly kept python or boa: small, calm and bred in many color morphs. Above all, it needs tight, secure hides, steady warmth and patience when it goes off food for a while.
Contents 11 sections
Quick tips
- Tight hides matter more than a large, empty enclosure. A ball python feels safe when it touches walls on all sides.
- Fasts are normal. Weigh regularly instead of trying new feeders every time a mouse is refused.
- After a meal, don't handle the snake for one to two days, or it may regurgitate its food.
- Quarantine new animals for a few weeks and have a vet examine them before they join your collection.
- Keeping them singly causes the least stress. Ball pythons are solitary, and even without visible fights, snakes kept together are often stressed.
Profile
- Length
- usually 90–120 cm, females larger, some individuals up to 180 cm
- Weight
- adults about 1–2.5 kg, females heavier than males
- Life span
- 20–30 years, more than 30 is possible
- Activity
- active at dusk and at night, spends the day in tight hides
Source [1]
Climate and light
- Day
- 26–32 °C (79–90 °F)
- Night
- 23–25 °C (73–77 °F)
- Basking spot
- 32–35 °C (90–95 °F)
- Humidity
- 60–80%
- Light
- About 12 hours of light all year, on a fixed day-night schedule. Heat from above with a heat lamp behind a guard, plus a low-output UVB lamp with shaded places to retreat to.
Around 80% in the humid hide, a little more during a shed. Not below 23 °C (73 °F) at night. Austria requires 29–31 °C (84–88 °F) during the day and 60–90% humidity.
Enclosure
For an adult of about 120 cm, at least 150 × 60 × 90 cm (L × W × H). This meets the minimums in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Young snakes feel safer in a smaller enclosure at first, and the rules expressly allow this while they grow. Ideally visible only from the front and in a quiet spot.
- Substrate
- Moisture-retaining and dust-free, such as soil, humus or bark mulch.
- Setup
- At least two tight hides (warm and cool), one of them humid. A water bowl the snake fits into completely, branches for climbing, a thermometer and a hygrometer.
Minimum sizes
GermanyGuideline
Length 1 × total length, width 0.5 ×, height 0.75 ×, for up to two animals of about the same size. About 20% more volume for each additional animal. A guideline value: in individual cases the enclosure may be up to about 10% smaller.
Source [3]
AustriaLaw
1–2 animals up to 50 cm: 0.2 m² floor area, 0.4 m high · 50–100 cm: 0.5 m², 0.6 m · adults: 0.9 m², 0.7 m. Add 0.1 m² (adults: 0.2 m²) for each additional animal.
Source [2]
SwitzerlandLaw
For up to two animals: floor area 1 × 0.5 body lengths, height 0.75 body lengths (total length of the largest animal). Add 0.5 × 0.2 body lengths for each additional animal.
Source [5]
Feeding
Juvenileup to 6 monthsevery 5–7 days
Pinky mouse, Adult mouse, Rat pup · no thicker than the thickest part of the body
Subadult6 months to about 2 yearsevery 10–14 days
Adult mouse, Rat · no thicker than the thickest part of the body
Adultfrom about 2 years or 90 cmevery 14–21 days
Rat · no thicker than the thickest part of the body
- Prey size
- 10–15% of body weight
Rule of thumb from keeping practice: a feeder weighs about 10–15% of the snake's body weight and is no thicker than the thickest part of the snake.
Source [6]
Feed in the evening, freshly killed or thawed. Don't feed while the snake is in shed (cloudy eyes). Fasts of weeks to months are normal, especially for males in winter, as long as the weight stays stable. That is why you should weigh regularly.
Shedding
Juveniles about every 4–6 weeks, adults less often. The eyes turn cloudy 1–2 weeks before. The skin should come off in one piece. Stuck shed on the eyes or tail tip usually means the air is too dry.
Source [1]
Brumation
No true brumation. In winter, shorten the light by 2–4 hours and lower the temperature by 4–6 °C (7–11 °F), especially before a pairing.
Source [2]
Breeding
- Sexual maturity
- males from about 1–1.5 years, females usually not until 2.5–3 years and around 1,500 g
- Clutch
- usually 5–7 eggs, 1–11 in all
- Incubation
- 55–60 days at 31–32 °C (88–90 °F)
After the ovulation, the clear swelling in the rear third of the body, females usually lay after 41–53 days. About 2–3 weeks after the ovulation they shed one last time; from then it usually takes another 24–33 days until they lay. Gravid females often refuse food. Below 30 °C (86 °F), incubation takes weeks longer. Better to pair too late than too early. Spider and some combinations show the “wobble” (unsteady head movements). The genetics calculator in HerpLabs warns you about such pairings.
Protection status and registration
As of October 20, 2026
EU
CITES Appendix II and Annex B of the EU Wildlife Trade Regulation. If you sell animals, you must be able to prove you acquired them legally.
Germany
Specially protected, but exempt from the duty to register (Annex 5, BArtSchV). You must be able to show proof of origin (receipt or captive-breeding certificate) on request, so keep it safe.
Austria
Report to the authorities within two weeks that you keep reptiles. Since July 1, 2026, you need to take a training course (at least 4 × 60 minutes) before your first reptile. A thermometer and a hygrometer are required.
Switzerland
No permit needed. A permit is only required for giant snakes that grow longer than 3 m. The minimum sizes in the Animal Protection Ordinance are binding.
Source [5]
This is not legal advice. Rules change, so check with the responsible authority if in doubt.
Health
No substitute for a vet. If your animal seems sick, refuses food for an unusually long time or loses weight, see a vet with experience in reptiles.
Respiratory infection
Signs wheezing or bubbling when breathing, mucus in the mouth or at the nose, open-mouth breathing
What to do Check temperature and humidity and see a vet soon. Can be contagious (for example nidovirus), so keep affected animals separate.
Stuck shed
Signs skin comes off in pieces, remnants on the eyes or tail tip
What to do Raise the humidity and offer a humid hide. Don't pull off retained eye caps yourself.
Mites
Signs tiny black dots, often around the eyes and chin, the snake soaks for unusually long
What to do See a vet. Clean the enclosure thoroughly and replace the decor.
Mouth rot
Signs redness, coating or swelling in the mouth, refusing food
What to do See a vet. Don't wait.
Burns
Signs discolored, blistered scales on the back or belly
What to do Put guards on all heat sources and use no heat rocks. See a vet.
Weight loss during a fast
Signs weight drops clearly over weeks, the snake looks sunken
What to do Check your temperatures and humidity and have a vet examine the snake.
Source [1]
Sources
- Heimtier-Info Königspython
- 2. Tierhaltungsverordnung, § 5, § 8 und Anlage 3 (Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilien)official
- Gutachten über Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilienofficial
- Reptilien – passende Gehege und die richtige Einrichtung
- Tierschutzverordnung (TSchV, SR 455.1), Art. 89 und Anhang 2 (Vorbemerkungen, Tabelle 5 Reptilien)official
- Ball Python Care Guide
- Follicular Growth Evaluation, Oviposition and Egg Hatching in the Ball Python (Python regius)
- Monitoring the reproductive activity in captive bred female ball pythons (P. regius)
- Python regius
- Metabolism, temperature relations, maternal behavior, and reproductive energetics in the ball python
- Verordnung (EU) 2026/1383 zur Änderung der Anhänge der Verordnung (EG) Nr. 338/97 (CITES-Vertragsstaatenkonferenz 2025)official
- Verordnung (EG) Nr. 338/97 über den Schutz von Exemplaren wildlebender Tier- und Pflanzenarten durch Überwachung des Handelsofficial
- Bundesartenschutzverordnung (BArtSchV), § 7, §§ 12–13 und Anlagen 5 und 6official
- Bundesnaturschutzgesetz (BNatSchG), § 46 Nachweispflichtofficial
- Tierschutzgesetz (TSchG), § 13 und § 25official
Values without a source are common experience from keeping and breeding. Every animal is different, so watch yours and adjust its care. As of October 20, 2026.
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