African fat-tailed gecko
Hemitheconyx caudicinctus · Fat-tailed gecko
The African fat-tailed gecko lives in the savannas and open woodlands of West Africa and is a relative of the leopard gecko. It is active at night, eats only insects and stores fat in its thick tail. There are fewer sources than for other species, and much comes from breeders. Each section says so where it applies.
Contents 11 sections
Quick tips
- The tail shows condition: A thick tail means well fed. If it gets thin, something is wrong.
- Never grab the tail: Fat-tailed geckos drop it when handled roughly. It grows back, but the fat reserve is gone.
- One male per enclosure. Even young males fight.
- Don't forget the humid hide, or skin remnants stick to the toes and tail.
- Fatty feeders only rarely: Waxworms and superworms quickly make them fat.
Profile
- Length
- about 18–25 cm including the tail; males larger than females
- Weight
- adults mostly 40–75 g, some large males over 100 g
- Life span
- 10–20 years
- Activity
- active at night, lives on the ground, hides in burrows and under rocks by day
Climate and light
- Day
- 22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
- Night
- 20–22 °C (68–72 °F)
- Basking spot
- 31–33 °C (88–91 °F)
- Humidity
- 50–70%
- Light
- About 12 hours of light. As a nocturnal species, the fat-tailed gecko doesn't need bright light. Low-level UVB (2–5%) isn't required but may help.
Heat works best from below, from a heat mat on a thermostat. Strong basking lamps dry the enclosure out too much. Mist lightly every day, especially for juveniles, and offer a humid hide on the cool side.
Enclosure
A US veterinary clinic names at least 60 × 45 × 30 cm (L × W × H) for a single animal, more for a pair. Floor space matters more than height, because fat-tailed geckos live on the ground. In Germany and Switzerland the size depends on snout-vent length, see below.
- Substrate
- A diggable substrate that holds some moisture, such as coconut fiber or a soil and clay mix. Avoid loose sand, it can be swallowed while eating.
- Setup
- Several hides on the warm and the cool side and a humid hide with damp sphagnum moss or paper towel, flat rocks and low branches, a shallow, stable water bowl. A heat mat only on a thermostat. A thermometer and a hygrometer, and an escape-proof lid.
Minimum sizes
GermanyGuideline
The report doesn't name the fat-tailed gecko specifically. For nocturnal ground-dwelling geckos such as the leopard gecko: length 4 × snout-vent length, width 3 ×, height 2 × for a pair, about 15% more floor area for each additional animal.
Source [5]
AustriaLaw
The 2nd Animal Husbandry Ordinance doesn't name the fat-tailed gecko specifically. The general rules apply: a temperature gradient with a drop at night, hides, a thermometer and a hygrometer.
Source [6]
SwitzerlandLaw
The Animal Protection Ordinance doesn't name the fat-tailed gecko specifically. For nocturnal ground-dwelling geckos such as the leopard gecko, up to two animals need 6 × 6 snout-vent lengths of floor area and 2 snout-vent lengths of height.
Source [7]
Feeding
Juvenileup to 8 monthsdaily
House crickets, Field crickets, Roaches · small crickets, about 6 mm long up to 10 g body weight
Adultfrom about 8 monthsevery 2–3 days
House crickets, Field crickets, Roaches · from about 25 g body weight also adult crickets
Insects only: crickets and roaches as staples, waxworms and superworms rarely, they are fattening. No source gives fixed age limits; fat-tailed geckos become sexually mature at about 8–11 months. Cricket size follows weight: a breeder gives crickets about 6 mm long up to 10 g, about 19 mm long from 18 g and adult crickets from 25 g. Gut-load feeder insects for 1–2 days, dust them mostly with calcium without D3, once or twice a week with D3 and once a week with a vitamin supplement. Adults gain weight quickly, so weigh them regularly. The tail is a fat store, and a thick tail shows a well-fed animal.
Shedding
A clean shed needs a little more moisture at times, and a humid hide helps. Remnants often stick to the toes and the tail tip. On the feet they can constrict and cost toes.
Brumation
No brumation needed, and there is no veterinary recommendation on it. To encourage breeding, breeders lower the temperature for 4–6 weeks: basking spot to about 28 °C (82 °F), cool side and night to about 21–24 °C (70–75 °F), without food. Afterwards, let it warm up slowly and start again with a few crickets.
Source [3]
Breeding
- Sexual maturity
- females at about 8–10 months, males at 10–11; breeders pair females from 8 months and 45 g
- Clutch
- usually 2 eggs, 3–5 clutches per season
- Incubation
- 43–70 days at 28–31 °C (82–88 °F)
At 28–29 °C (82–84 °F) incubation takes 55–70 days, at about 31 °C (88 °F) 43–48 days. Temperature decides the sex: around 28–29 °C (82–84 °F) mostly females hatch, around 31 °C (88 °F) mostly males, above 32 °C (90 °F) more females again. Below about 28 °C (82 °F) and above 34 °C (93 °F) the embryos die. The values come mainly from a breeder; a scientific study confirms the switch above 32 °C (90 °F). Never keep two males together, they fight to the death.
Protection status and registration
As of October 31, 2026
EU
Not a protected species (neither CITES nor the EU Wildlife Trade Regulation).
Source [11]
Germany
No registration or proof of origin required under species protection law.
Source [12]
Austria
Report keeping reptiles to the authority within two weeks. Since July 1, 2026, you need a training course (at least 4 × 60 minutes) before your first reptile. A thermometer and a hygrometer are required.
Switzerland
No permit needed.
Source [7]
This is not legal advice. Rules change, so check with the responsible authority if in doubt.
Health
No substitute for a vet. If your animal seems sick, refuses food for an unusually long time or loses weight, see a vet with experience in reptiles.
Metabolic bone disease (MBD)
Signs swollen legs or jaw, weakness
What to do Give calcium and vitamins as planned and see a vet.
Respiratory infection
Signs labored or wheezing breathing; often with wrong humidity or temperature
What to do Check the climate and see a vet.
Parasites
Signs eats poorly, loses weight, the tail gets thin
What to do Have a fecal sample tested, have new animals checked by a vet first.
Stuck shed
Signs skin stays on the toes or the tail tip
What to do Offer a humid hide. If remnants constrict, see a vet.
Obesity
Signs the animal keeps getting heavier, often from fatty feeder insects
What to do Cut waxworms and superworms, weigh regularly.
Sources
- YVCipedia Reptiles – African Fat-Tailed Gecko Care Sheet
- Hemitheconyx caudicinctus (Fat-tail Gecko)
- Breeding Fat-Tailed Geckos
- Keeping Fat-Tailed Geckos
- Gutachten über Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilienofficial
- 2. Tierhaltungsverordnung, § 5, § 8 und Anlage 3 (Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilien)official
- Tierschutzverordnung (TSchV, SR 455.1), Art. 89 und Anhang 2 (Vorbemerkungen, Tabelle 5 Reptilien)official
- Nutrition in Lizards
- How To Care For a Leopard Gecko
- Nest-site selection in two eublepharid gecko species with temperature-dependent sex determination and one with genotypic sex determination
- Verordnung (EU) 2026/1383 zur Änderung der Anhänge der Verordnung (EG) Nr. 338/97 (CITES-Vertragsstaatenkonferenz 2025)official
- Bundesartenschutzverordnung (BArtSchV), § 7, §§ 12–13 und Anlagen 5 und 6official
- Tierschutzgesetz (TSchG), § 13 und § 25official
Values without a source are common experience from keeping and breeding. Every animal is different, so watch yours and adjust its care. As of October 31, 2026.
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