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Bearded dragon

Pogona vitticeps · Central bearded dragon

The central bearded dragon lives in the semi-deserts and dry woodlands of central Australia and is the most commonly kept lizard in Germany. It needs plenty of light with UVB, a very hot basking spot, a mostly plant-based diet as an adult and a brumation period every year.

As of October 21, 202613 sources

Contents 11 sections

Contents

  1. 01Quick tips
  2. 02Profile
  3. 03Climate and light
  4. 04Enclosure
  5. 05Feeding
  6. 06Shedding
  7. 07Brumation
  8. 08Breeding
  9. 09Protection status and registration
  10. 10Health
  11. 11Sources

Quick tips

  • UVB is vital: Without UVB and calcium, bearded dragons develop soft bones. Lamps lose UV output over time, so replace them as the manufacturer recommends.
  • Greens first: From about one year on, bearded dragons eat almost only plants. Insects are then offered once or twice a week.
  • Never keep males together. One male with only one female is not recommended either. Keeping a single dragon works fine.
  • Weigh weekly and keep new animals separate for a few weeks, with a fecal test at the vet.
  • Wash your hands: Bearded dragons often carry salmonella. Take care around small children, pregnant women and people with weakened immune systems.

Profile

Length
up to 60 cm including the tail, snout-vent length 20–25 cm
Weight
adults about 250–510 g
Life span
over 9 years, some over 15 years
Activity
active by day, climbs and digs

Sources [1] [2]

Climate and light

Day
25–28 °C (77–82 °F)
Night
20–23 °C (68–73 °F)
Basking spot
45–50 °C (113–122 °F)
Humidity
30–40%
Light
10–14 hours of light with a high UVB share, ideally from a metal halide lamp behind a guard as the source of light and heat. There must be no glass between lamp and animal, because glass filters out UVB. In Austria, 12–14 hours of light and daily UV exposure are required.

At night, humidity may rise to 60%, and a small part of the floor stays damp at all times. Austria requires 25–33 °C (77–91 °F) during the day, up to 45 °C (113 °F) in one spot, 18–22 °C (64–72 °F) at night and 45–65% humidity. The TVT gives 22–25 °C (72–77 °F) at floor level and 40–60% humidity.

Sources [3] [4] [1] [5] [6] [7]

Enclosure

For one adult, at least 150 × 80 × 80 cm (L × W × H). For two animals, Swiss Animal Protection (STS) recommends 180 × 100 × 100 cm. Bearded dragons move a lot, so bigger is better. In Switzerland the proportions also count: with a snout-vent length of 22 cm, you need 110 × 88 cm of floor area and 88 cm of height.

Substrate
Clay-rich sand or a dust-free sand-clay mix, about 20 cm deep in one spot so the animals can dig. A small area stays slightly damp.
Setup
Several hides, rough climbing branches about as thick as the animal, rock structures and raised basking platforms, a shallow water bowl, a UV lamp behind a guard, a thermometer and a hygrometer. Secure everything so nothing can fall over or be dug under.

Sources [1] [4] [8]

Minimum sizes

  • GermanyGuideline

    Length 5 × snout-vent length, width 4 ×, height 3 × for a pair. About 15% more floor area for each additional animal.

    Source [7]

  • AustriaLaw

    1–2 animals up to 12 cm: 0.4 m² floor area, 0.4 m high · 12–20 cm: 0.6 m², 0.5 m · 20–40 cm: 0.8 m², 0.6 m · adults: 1.0 m², 0.8 m. Add 0.1 / 0.2 / 0.3 / 0.4 m² for each additional animal. No more than one adult male per enclosure.

    Source [6]

  • SwitzerlandLaw

    For up to two animals: floor area 5 × 4 snout-vent lengths, height 4 snout-vent lengths (largest animal). Add 2 × 2 snout-vent lengths for each additional animal. Places to climb, hides and a bright lamp for the basking spot are required.

    Sources [9] [8]

Feeding

  • Hatchlingup to 4 monthsdaily

    House crickets, Field crickets, Roaches, Wild greens · mostly insects, no wider than the head

  • Juvenile4–12 monthsevery 1–2 days

    House crickets, Field crickets, Roaches, Wild greens · insects no wider than the head, the share of plants grows

  • Adultfrom about 1 yearevery 1–2 days

    Wild greens, Field crickets, Roaches, Locusts · almost only plants, insects no wider than the head

Prey size
no bigger than the width of the head

Live food is no wider than the bearded dragon's head.

Source [2]

Young dragons eat mostly insects. The TVT gives 90% animal food, RSPCA Australia around 70% up to the fourth month. From about one year on, you feed your bearded dragon almost only plants: wild greens such as dandelion, chickweed, clover and plantain, unsprayed fruit tree leaves, plus romaine lettuce. Insects then once or twice a week, always dusted with a mineral and vitamin supplement. Mealworms and superworms only rarely, fruit only in small amounts at most. Plan weekly fasting days, because too much protein damages the kidneys over time.

Sources [1] [2] [5] [4]

Shedding

Bearded dragons shed in several pieces. Remnants stuck on the toes or tail tip can constrict them. A corner that is always damp, for example with moistened moss, helps, as does misting with lukewarm water two to three times a week.

Sources [2] [1]

Brumation

Every year, one to two months at 12–18 °C (54–64 °F). Lower light and heat over several weeks and later raise them again, always with drinking water available. Have a fecal sample tested before and after. Only healthy animals go into brumation, and at least ten days must pass between deworming and brumation. Austria requires about two months with 6–8 hours of light and 15–20 °C (59–68 °F). Many dragons find their own rhythm and withdraw as early as August.

Sources [4] [1] [6] [5]

Breeding

Sexual maturity
at 14–18 months
Clutch
usually 16–30 eggs, up to 40 according to the TVT; up to 3–4 clutches per season
Incubation
50–80 days at 26–32 °C (79–90 °F)

Above 32 °C (90 °F), more females hatch, even from genetically male eggs. By the third clutch in a row at the latest, the calcium reserves often run out, and egg binding becomes a risk. Mixed groups put females under pressure. It is better to keep the animals singly and put them together for mating. The TVT considers the Silkback morph, which lacks dorsal scales, a case of torture breeding.

Sources [10] [1] [5]

As of October 21, 2026

  • EU

    Not protected under wildlife trade law (neither CITES nor the EU Wildlife Trade Regulation).

    Source [11]

  • Germany

    No duty to register and no proof of origin required under species protection law.

    Source [12]

  • Austria

    Report to the authorities within two weeks that you keep reptiles. Since July 1, 2026, you need to take a training course (at least 4 × 60 minutes) before your first reptile. A UV lamp, a thermometer and a hygrometer are required.

    Sources [13] [6]

  • Switzerland

    No permit needed. The minimum sizes in the Animal Protection Ordinance are binding.

    Source [9]

This is not legal advice. Rules change, so check with the responsible authority if in doubt.

Health

No substitute for a vet. If your animal seems sick, refuses food for an unusually long time or loses weight, see a vet with experience in reptiles.

  • Calcium deficiency (metabolic bone disease)

    Signs soft or crooked jaw, bent legs, tremors, poor growth

    What to do Dust the insects, check and replace the UVB lamp, and see a vet.

  • Gout and kidney damage

    Signs the dragon eats less and seems lethargic, often only after years on a diet with many insects

    What to do See a vet (blood work) and switch to a mostly plant-based diet.

  • Constipation

    Signs no poop for days, swollen belly, not eating; often after swallowing sand because of a mineral deficiency

    What to do Check the temperature and the mineral supply and see a vet.

  • Egg binding

    Signs the female digs for a long time and doesn't lay, seems restless or lethargic

    What to do Offer a laying site with diggable, slightly damp sand. If she still doesn't lay, see a vet soon.

  • Mites

    Signs tiny dots at the corners of the mouth, ear openings, armpits or tail base, common in newly bought animals

    What to do See a vet. Don't use over-the-counter products from the pet store.

  • Intestinal parasites

    Signs diarrhea, weight loss, poor appetite

    What to do Have a fecal sample tested, at the latest before and after brumation.

Sources [4] [1] [5]

Sources

  1. Merkblatt Nr. 176: Heimtiere – BartagamenTierärztliche Vereinigung für Tierschutz (TVT) · August 2015 · retrieved October 21, 2026
  2. How should I care for my bearded dragon?RSPCA Australia · October 3, 2023 · retrieved October 21, 2026
  3. Machbarkeitsstudie zum EXOPET-Projekt exemplarisch für die Spezies Pogona vitticepsKlinik für Vögel und Reptilien, Universität Leipzig, commissioned by the State of Baden-Württemberg · 2022 · retrieved October 21, 2026Compares the BMEL report, the rules in Austria and Switzerland, the TVT and the recommendation of the EXOPET experts side by side.
  4. Die Bartagame – Vorschlag für eine tiergerechte HaltungKlinik für Vögel und Reptilien, Universität Leipzig · retrieved October 21, 2026Based on the expert opinion of the EXOPET working group.
  5. Bartagamen in der Praxis – eine EinführungHermann Kempf, news4vets 04/2021 · 2021 · retrieved October 21, 2026Article by a reptile vet, written for vets.
  6. 2. Tierhaltungsverordnung, § 5, § 8 und Anlage 3 (Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von Reptilien)officialRepublic of Austria, BGBl. II Nr. 486/2004, last amended by BGBl. II Nr. 144/2026 · Version of October 20, 2026 · retrieved October 20, 2026
  7. Gutachten über Mindestanforderungen an die Haltung von ReptilienofficialBundesministerium für Ernährung und Landwirtschaft (now BMLEH), Sachverständigengruppe tierschutzgerechte Haltung von Terrarientieren · January 10, 1997 · retrieved October 20, 2026Spells out § 2 of the German Animal Welfare Act. Not a law, but the standard veterinary offices in Germany go by.
  8. Reptilien – passende Gehege und die richtige EinrichtungSchweizer Tierschutz STS · June 2018 · retrieved October 20, 2026
  9. Tierschutzverordnung (TSchV, SR 455.1), Art. 89 und Anhang 2 (Vorbemerkungen, Tabelle 5 Reptilien)officialSwiss Confederation · As of February 1, 2026 · retrieved October 20, 2026
  10. Bearded Dragon Care Guide (Pogona vitticeps)Exo Terra · retrieved October 21, 2026Care guide from an enclosure manufacturer, not veterinary guidance. Source for sexual maturity, clutches and incubation.
  11. Verordnung (EU) 2026/1383 zur Änderung der Anhänge der Verordnung (EG) Nr. 338/97 (CITES-Vertragsstaatenkonferenz 2025)officialEuropean Commission · June 22, 2026 · retrieved October 20, 2026
  12. Bundesartenschutzverordnung (BArtSchV), § 7, §§ 12–13 und Anlagen 5 und 6officialFederal Republic of Germany · Last amended January 21, 2013 · retrieved October 20, 2026
  13. Tierschutzgesetz (TSchG), § 13 und § 25officialRepublic of Austria · Version of October 20, 2026 · retrieved October 20, 2026

Values without a source are common experience from keeping and breeding. Every animal is different, so watch yours and adjust its care. As of October 21, 2026.

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